Saturday, October 10, 2015

Test Garment

I have been away since Wednesday attending a business conference in Greensboro, North Carolina. Returning yesterday after unpacking I decided to spend a little time in my sewing room. I basted the side seams for the Presto Popover Top. That was the last step in the process to determine the fit.

I took some photos and made some notes on the fitting areas for the neckline. I used a medium size for the neck and shoulders and upper chest. I then blended to a large about an inch from the underarm to the bottom of the top. An earlier post I showed you the full bust adjustment I made. The issue is the back collar. There seems to be just too much fabric for the back neckline for me. Or perhaps the center neckline seam needs to be taken up. Perhaps I need to trace the small for the neckline and use the medium for the shoulder and upper chest.

One of the fitting issues in sewing the test garment, I had to re-do the back attachment to the front piece and in doing so I ended up cutting about 3/8 of the yoke seam which I knew would impact some of the fit. This is also a very thin burnout knit and most likely the recovery in re-stitching the front to the back twice impacted the look of the neckline in the front as well as the back.

I really appreciate and want your constructive feedback about what you see from the pictures below. Are you seeing what I'm describing or something else? Let me also say I made a forward shoulder adjustment which may not be appropriate for this pattern. I can see from the photos as well as in person that the shoulder area moves forward. Again I'm not sure that this is an appropriate adjustment for this pattern. I've looked at several reviews of this pattern on Pattern Review and it's hard to tell where the back yoke needs to fall.

Thanks again for reviewing and your feedback.

Sunday, October 04, 2015

Presto Popover Top

I have been working on the Presto Popover Top this weekend. I printed this pattern several days ago and Friday evening I taped all of the pages together. I then traced around the medium and large sizes that seem to fit my measurements. I then pin fitted the traced pattern and decided I needed to make a small FBA.

My first attempt at the FBA was to use my usual method which results in a bust dart. I then decided to eliminate the bust dart and take off the extra from the side that was created. However something went wrong in this process and the side seams did not match up. I really did not want a bust dart. I decided to try another method using fitting book by Sandra Betzina. 

If you click on the photo you will be able to see how this method works to create a FBA. Here's what the front pattern piece looks like using this method.

I decided to use another fabric to test so this pattern. This is a piece that is from my stash that's a burnout rayon knit that I purchased from JoAnn's Fabrics. I made some adjustments to the shoulder as well as a sway back adjustment.  Because of these adjustments I decided that it was best to test the pattern. From reading reviews at PR, I know that there is a tricky part with the neckline and attaching it to the back. And of course it took me three tries to finally get it correct. In doing so my cheapo fabric stretched out a shape somewhat. I am happy that I have figured out how to do this so when using other fabrics I should not have this issue.

I still need to attach the sleeves and during the pin fitting process I determined that I had traced the wrong size and had to trace another sleeve pattern. It does seeing from the reviews that the sleeve may be tight so I adjusted for that as well. Once you sew in the sleeves flat you then sew up the side seams and hem.  Then presto!  you have a completed top.

Here's a picture of the fabric that I'm using; it's hard to see the burnout areas and the knit is very thin. However it has served its purpose as a test for this pattern.

Thursday, October 01, 2015

New fabrics

I recently gave in to the urge to buy some fabrics taking advantage of some sales. I purchased quite a few knit fabrics from Fabric Mart. Here are some photos:

Faux leather knit

deep royal blue ITY

Gray and beige floral print knit

nude rayon knit

red slub rayon knit
I also purchased some fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics.

Beige textured knit

Jacket weight black knit
I already have plans for three of the new fabrics. I plan to sew the red slub rayon knit using the Presto top pattern from Savage Coco. I took advantage of the Pattern Anthology bundle sale as seen here.
I plan to sew the Denver dress if I have enough of this material which I think I do if not it will become the Denver top.

Let me end this post by saying thank you to all of those who responded to my previous post about Instagram. Hopefully by trying some of the suggestions that were given I have eliminated my following of other Instagram-ers that I had never selected to follow. I have also blocked some.

Wednesday, September 30, 2015

Help with Instagram

I am not an avid user of Instagram. I have been using it off and on; I do see other bloggers using it. In the past several weeks I have gone to Instagram and I found several postings of photos of people that were pretty risqué to be subtle. Truly some were porn videos. I then noticed that on my account I was following a lot of people that I never chose to follow.

I then went through and started un-following numerous individuals. Yet each time I went back I find I am following people that I never chose to follow and I go through the process again. I have attempted to communicate with Instagram about the situation and never get any feedback or response from them.

I am assuming that my account has either been hacked or perhaps because some people are following me I am then following some of their followers. I hope that made sense. So for those of you who use Instagram on a regular basis, are you seeing the same issue? If not, how do you control this? Should I delete my account and start over? I truly appreciate your feedback. Please leave a comment. Or you can send me an email at lwl1951 at gmail dot com. Thanks for your assistance.

Sunday, September 27, 2015

Quick View

I completed the Butterick 6183 top. I am okay with the blouse.I have a few dislikes and some are my issues and not the pattern.  I was so focused on fitting the bust,the back, the waist, the hips that I did not focus on the shoulder and where the shoulder ended.
I don't like the insertion of the zipper as they have you do it. Next time, I will insert the zipper on the side, or adjust the back opening to a full seam and insert the zipper there .

Here are a few photos of the completed blouse.

My next project will be the Presto Top by Savage Coco. I have a red rayon slub knit that I just washed to be used for this top. This was just recently acquired from Fabric Mart. More posting and photos to follow

Friday, September 25, 2015

Window shopping

I went to Macy's yesterday for skincare products and decided to do a little window or snoop shopping, however you may want to describe it. I saw several sweater type jackets of interest as well as several dresses.

I found the quality to be not to good bad.  One sweater had faux leather trim along the front zipper closing that was puckered and top stitched badly.  There was no stabilizing elastic or seam tape to keep the shoulders from stretching and drooping.

There were other issues as well.  With every item I looked at, I kept saying you would sew this garment much better.  I even have similar fabric or know where to acquire it!

I am looking forward to some quality sewing time this weekend.  It has been a long work week and sewing is such a good way to rid one of stress.

Thursday, September 17, 2015

Busy-no sewing

This is the time of year that I call Budget Season at my office.  Staff and I have to prepare capital budgets, payroll budgets and the list goes on.  This has created more evening work and less play time for me.  During this time, we have strategic planning process taking place as the budget and the plan should match up.  We have a planning retreat with our Board of Directors Sunday afternoon into the first half of the day on Monday.

My weekend will be one free day-Saturday.  Unfortunately for sewing time,  there is another planned event for that day, so sewing has come to a halt.  Hopefully I will find a few moments here and there to continue working on the Butterick top.  Not much left to do actually: insert sleeves and hem.  I did baste the back princess seams from waist to hip and I need to try on again as I think that will eliminate some of the fullness in that area. 

Overall I like this blouse.  To me it is somewhat of a cropped top with shaping.  I do see more of this one being made for fall.

Happy sewing and more updates later.


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